PATTERN GRADING FOR FASHION DESIGN- learn how to grade Part 3

This is the final post in a 3-part series. In part 1 and part 2, I talked about why one may need to grade, what grading is and is not, and methods of pattern grading. You should look at those posts before continuing with this. Those posts contain videos and links to resources that can help get started. This post will even contain more links to resources I have personally found very helpful.

First up is a Threads magazine online article from way back (2008). This article is golden. It gives a simple example of how patterns “grow” at different locations within a pattern. It explained grading using a cut and spread diagram, but the info is also useful to both the “slide” and X &Y methods. This growth in different location as shown on the chart (available in the article linked to) are known as “grade rules”. The chart shows a simple formula for arriving at the grade rules. This formula is not set in stone but it is a very good starting point.

PATTERN GRADING FOR FASHION DESIGN: How to learn to grade sewing patterns Part 2

The previous post defined what grading is and why you may need to grade. Today's post highlights different pattern grading method

WAYS TO GRADE

Different sources may categorize in different ways but it all boils down to the same thing. Below is my classification:

A.    Manual grading

B.    Machine grading

C.    Computer grading

PATTERN GRADING FOR FASHION DESIGN: How to learn to grade sewing patterns Part 1

What is Pattern grading?

Pattern grading is the process or technique of making a sewing pattern available in other additional sizes without redrafting each size from scratch; Grading is the method by which the pattern grader creates patterns for a whole range of sizes from the agreed base size. It is the task of grading to proportion those increments among the different parts or panels of the garment according to detailed, logical rules

Darted Versus Dartless Bodice Block

 Is the bust fitting and back shoulder fitting darts (as shown on Diagram A) always necessary?

A number of pattern drafting methods have you draft the bodice block with a bust fitting dart in front and sometimes a short shoulder fitting dart at the back. The bust fitting dart may be positioned during drafting at the corner of the shoulder (Natalie Bray); At the corner of the Neck (Aldrich) or at the waist (Armstrong). 

It is not all the time that a garment require a bust fitting dart. Instead of transferring the dart elsewhere where it would create unwanted fullness, why not start with a block that has eliminated that step (of transferring fullness) yet remains fitted?

It's been a while dear readers

Hello. It has been a really long time since I posted on here. Over a year! Not easy blogging.I really hope to get this blog going.

So a few months back Serena Williams wore this chic asymmetric pink dress to the Royal wedding and I really liked the dress so I decided to try a draft of the dress. I have not had the chance to sew up a sample.

WPA Pool/Getty Images Entertainment/Getty Images

One of the most popular posts on this blog, is this Celeribity Hack post, so I will like to continue with that series like I said in the post. I posted this on Instagram, and it turned out to be my most popular Instagram post ever with lots of saves.

Watch out for the next post that that details my analysis of the style, drafting steps and sewing tips for the Serena Dress (as I like to call it).

Enjoy!

New Sewing Pattern Alert- The Bailey Bolero Jacket

Hello.
So I said in a post last week, that this month of July will see a number of new pattern releases for your sewing pleasure. I also previewed one of the new patterns.

Yes the Bailey Bolero Jacket is here.
Bailey is a bolero jacket with high roll shawl collar that is convertible to a revers jacket if lined with shell fabric.
This classic jacket will instantly up-level any outfit you throw it on. This jacket, you may have guessed, is inspired by the Ralph Lauren outfit Melania Trump wore at the presidential inauguration. Most notable difference is that I opted for  set in sleeves instead of  raglan.

Aria Sewing Pattern Release

Yay! the Aria top is the SewExplicit Patterns latest sewing pattern. The Aria top features an underarm cowl and a basic round neck finished with a neckband.

This laid back style can be worn casually on a pair of jeans or lengthened to make a sassy short party dress. The Aria pattern is an easy make, quick sewing and it is suitable for beginners.
Aria is designed for knit fabric with enough vertical and horizontal stretch to wear without the need of fastening.