Wednesday, 28 September 2016

Deciding what Size of Sewing Pattern to Choose



How do you decide what size of our pattern to sew?
The pattern comes with a body measurement chart which you can use to decide. The most important deciding factor is usually the bust. So select a size closest to your bust measurement. This is because the bust-armhole region is always the most difficult area to alter so you don’t want to mess with that. You can easily alter the waist and hip lines.
The type of pattern will also influence how you decide, each pattern also comes with the approximate finished dimensions so you have an idea of how much ease has been included. Each pattern also comes with the approximate finished a dimension so
you have an idea of how much ease has been included.
Each pattern also advises on the most important factor for that particular pattern depending on the silhouette. The deciding factor for a skirt would be the hip measurement. Some styles are loose fitting that selecting a pattern style with bust measurement smaller than yours will still work.
Ekinni dress

In the Ekinni for instance, the bust is the most important and it is advised that if you are in between sizes,  you select the smaller size. The waist and skirt is free and shouldn’t be of much concern. let us take Lilian's (an hypothetical customer) body measurement of 39.5"-35"-44"for example. Lilian's measurements puts her closer to size 14 than size 12, but because of the bias nature of the Ekinni cut which will cause it to stretch, it is advised that she select a size 12 of the Ekinni pattern.

Ebun kimono top

In Ebun, again the bust measurement is the deciding factor. Ebun is however cut on he straight grain, hence little give (i.e. stretch). So you want to select the closest to your bust measurement. For instance, still using Lilian's body measurements above, Lilian should select size 14, but according to the body chart 14 has a waist and hip dimensions of 34" and 42" respectively. To fix this, Lilian would have to blend between sizes 14 and 16 of the Ebun pattern. the image below depicts how to blend between sizes using the Ebun pattern as example.
Blending between sizes



In conclusion, use the body measurement chart alongside the specific advice given in a pattern, also check the approximate finished dimension chart to know how much alteration can be tolerated.
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